Summit of Everest

Scott’s been to Everest in 2010, 2013, 2014, 2015 and now in 2017.  He’s seen his share of tragedy – the awful icefall collapse that killed 16 Sherpas in 2014 and the terrible earthquake in 2015.  After summiting for the first time in 2010, he came close in 2013 (giving up his bid to provide his client with extra oxygen) and now in 2017, he got to see the top of the planet again.

It was exactly a week ago – Saturday May 27 Nepal time that the Pender team stepped to the top.  It was a long trip – the weather was capricious this year and there were limited summit days.  May 27 was the final day of the brief Everest season.

Paul, Mike (guide), Scott and six Sherpas:   Sange Dorjee, Nima Nuru, Purba Choter (Ang Jangbu), Mingmar Tenji, Passang Wongchu and Pemba Chote, left Camp 4 at the South Col at 8pm on the 26th for an all-nighter to the top.  They made fairly good progress on a mostly quiet climbing day and arrived at the summit at dawn on the 27th.  Flurries of snow swirled – When I get the picture up, you’ll see that Scottie’s eye lashes look frosty.  It’s not cozy.

We were thrilled to hear they had finally made the top.  From there, Scott can come home.  It really feels like downhill.  No time was lost and Scott skipped home in 5 days.  They helicoptered to Kathmandu from Basecamp – hence the quick return. We are happy to have him back after two months and 4 days!

 

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Summit bid this week

Scott is currently at Camp 2 fending off what appears to be flu.  He and Paul and guide, Mike went down to Namche Bazaar for 5 days to rest but Scott seems to have caught a bug there.  With great difficulty no doubt, the bug is being transported upon high.  Not fun or easy at 6500 metres.  The AC doc is keeping tabs on him and he’s taking everything to beat it back.

The main AC team including our good friend Suze Kelly, summited yesterday. Yay for Suze!  Scott and team are looking for a summit bid this coming Thursday or Friday (May 25-26).  Fingers crossed.  Send healing and easy breathing vibes Scott’s way….

2nd round to altitude

Thanks for following Scott’s blog.  They did their first acclimatization round and tagged the bottom of the Lhotse face (6850m) then returned to EBC after 6 days up high.  Scott tweaked his knee on the way back down but it’s all taped up and has continued to improve since being back at base camp.  After that first round of acclimatizing, it’s important to return to recuperate.  Many have coughs and cold which really play havoc on the breathing up high.

The Pender team (Scott’s) set off at 1am Nepal time on the 28th to head back up for the second round of acclimatizing.  They’ll be hoping to get to camp 3 on the Lhotse face and will spend several nights at camp 2.  Then they’ll return to rest up and wait for the weather for their summit bid.  The key factor is letting the jet stream winds die down.  This happens only for the first two weeks of May usually.  The team is hoping for a May 12 summit bid.

In all AC posts and all conversations with Scottie, Blizzard the dog is a key feature.  He or she followed the team up to EBC and s/he’s followed them way up into the Icefall.  The entire team is besotted and Suze (AC manager) wants to take the dog home apparently.  The team next door is trying to steal Blizzard.  The latest is that Blizzard has fleas so they are trying to get a flea collar brought from Kathmandu.  Dogs in Nepal are not usually pets.  This is a feral opportunist canine!  But a most beloved one.  She did a runner for one night and the crew were devastated.  Obviously she missed her dinner so is now back.

Stay tuned for updates on the adventures of the high alpine dog and her followers.

Here’s a pic copied from the AC dispatch.  Classic – Scott is holding Blizzard’s paw.  He’s a dog lover from way back….

https://i2.wp.com/www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/ac145/images/27-4%20Blizzard%20Dog.JPG

https://i0.wp.com/www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/ac145/images/IMG_1259_1493120788.JPG

Basecamp

Scott has arrived in basecamp (EBC) and has pimped out his tent for the long haul. Anyone who’s hung out with him knows he’s a master organizer! He’ll be based at EBC for the next month at least.  All is going well – they crossed Chukung Ri (a pass) then climbed Lobuche East (20075 ft / 6119 m) to hasten their acclimatization without going through the dangerous Khumbu Icefall too many times.

The Puja took place today (or yesterday depending on who is reading this and where).  Thus blessings are completed and the process of climbing Mt Everest will begin in the next few days.  First:  an acclimatization round to Camp 2 or Camp 3, all going well.  He’ll be on the mountain for about a week then they will return to EBC for a rest before doing at least one other acclimatization round.  The purpose of all this upping and downing is to allow the blood to adapt to the thin air way up in the jet stream parts of our atmosphere.  As an example – if you or I went to the summit of Mt Everest (say we parachuted out of a jet), we’d be dead of asphyxia within 5 minutes.  Hence the need for a gradual ascent.  Fitness doesn’t really play into it much – although the better shape you are, the better your coping mechanisms.

Here are some images from the Puja:

IMG_4124

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Scott Everest 2017

He’s gone back!  Again working for our good friends at Adventure Consultants.  You can follow their blog at: www.adventureconsultants.com

Scott is with a private client and they are moving ahead of the rest of the AC team. You can follow his group’s instagram at:  Eaglecresteverest

Today – April 2 – he is currently in Kumjung/Namche Bazaar on their way to acclimatize by climbing Lobuche East.  He’s been a little sick but is sounding better and is in good spirits.  Scott is once again assisted by his assistant camera, Mingma.  Mingma and Scott have worked together since working with Karina in 2013.

They arrive in Base Camp for a fundraising concert by DJ Paul Oakenfold at the camp of HimEX.  Go figure!

http://kathmandupost.ekantipur.com/news/2017-03-31/renowned-dj-paul-oakenfold-to-perform-live-at-mt-everest-base-camp.html

I’ll be in touch with more details.  Fingers crossed for a smooth season!

Anna

 

 

 

Scott is back in Utah

Scott arrived home very early Monday morning (May 11).  We were really concerned hearing about the very significant aftershock centred near Namche Bazaar in the Khumbu valley on May 13.  At 7.2, this is easily enough to further destabilize buildings and landslides.  Aftershocks are always a big concern and Christchurch (where we were for the 7.3 EQ in 2011) still suffers from aftershocks several years later.

Scott is understandably quite shaken by the experience in Nepal.  The loss of the six Sherpas on the AC team has been especially difficult.  As he and Guy and Suze and Rob Smith (a Scottish guide) travelled down valley and to Kathmandu, they visited the families of the Sherpas who died and also visited the Sherpas still in hospital in K’du.  Although we are happy to have him home, it’s also a relief that he remained to assist AC clean their base camp and to visit and  (to try) to offer solace to the families of the fallen and to visit the other injured Sherpas from the AC team.

Please consider donating to the Sherpa fund via Adventure Consultants: http://www.adventureconsultants.com/adventure/AC_Sherpa_Fund/

Scott leaves Base Camp

Scott and the remainder of the Adventure Consultants team – including our good friends Guy and Suze from Adventure Consultants – have left EBC and are heading back down valley toward Lukla and Kathmandu.  Scott says it feels strange to leave Base Camp after all the intensity of focus there.  Happily he found his second hiking shoe and now has a matching pair to walk in.  Regarding his film projects, Scott was actually rolling when the earthquake struck and has continued to film the clean up effort at EBC – led by team leader and multiple Everest summitter, Guy Cotter.  He also helped clean up the camp.  Scottie is a man of action after all.  He says it has been very intense and sad at Base Camp.

He’s now in Pheriche and then will spend  a couple of days in Namche Bazaar before heading to Kathmandu.  I’m uncertain of the situation in Kathmandu.  I can only imagine it is very difficult with crowding, aftershocks and people living outside – and the hygiene issues associated with such a disaster.  We hope for his safe return home in the next 10 days or so.

IMG_1918Base Camp before the avalanche.